Syma S107 problems – bad batch of gears?

All three Syma S107 helis I purchased recently from have had issues – the intermediate rear gear (for the top rotor) have suffered from broken teeth, and there was one motor failure (front, drives the lower rotor). The dead motor I think can be chalked up to bad luck, but the gears I think might indicate some larger quality issues in what has up until now been a fantasticly robust and value for money rc heli.

Location of intermediate gear with broken teetch

Syma s107 intermediate gear with broken teeth

I’ve contacted but so far they don’t seem keen to send replacement gears. Luckily ebay seems to be a good source (search for “s107-09”) – probably not a bad idea to have some spares handy.

Inside a knockoff Brembo radial master cylinder

I got myself one of the cheap knockoff Brembo radial master cylinders that are coming out of Thailand and going for around AU$60 delivered on ebay. Build quality seems a bit iffy – the handlebar clamp surface isn’t square, and it wasn’t releasing pressure, leading to a seized brake system (not fun!). Since it didn’t cost me much (less than just a Brembo lever!), I wasn’t too upset that it didn’t work. I pulled it apart to see if I could fix it, or at least get an understanding of how they work.

Master cylinder with lever removed

Piston pushrod and cover - unscrews

Piston, pushrod and cover removed

View into reservoir port - intake/return port, equalisation port

I’m still not 100% certain on the cause of the issue. All the seals appeared ok, and no passages were blocked. I haven’t yet reinstalled and tested. Going by this thread (in particular post 5), I’m pretty sure that the cause of the issue is the piston not retracting fully so that the intake/return port was not uncovered. This would prevent pressure build up from being released. When I first installed the lever, bleeding took ages – no matter how much I pumped the lever the fluid just didn’t seem to be getting through. I had to use a syringe to force fluid up from the caliper out the bleed nipple on the master cylinder. This kind of makes sense if the intake/return port was blocked or not uncovered. Two possible causes for this could be:

  • Not enough lever free play preventing the piston from retracting enough to uncover the intake/return port, or
  • Construction tolerances out slightly so that piston does not retract far enough to uncover the intake/return port.

It is hard to tell because there’s little light, but it does seem that with the pushrod screwed all the way in, the lip of the first seal is just covering the intake/return port. I’m planning on trying it out as is, in case the cleaning did make a difference. If it still seizes, then I’m going to see about backing off the pushrod cover collar, which should allow the piston to retract slightly more. If this does work, then I’m going to need to make a spacing collar or some such.

Bush mechanic exhaust springs, or “high temp zipties”

I took off from my local bike shop on my SRX6 with a few people watching (probably the kick start…) so I gave it a handful and suddenly the exhaust got very loud (but boy did it sound good!). I pulled over and saw that the muffler/mid pipe had actually fallen off the headers. It seems that the muffler section is only press fit onto the headers, and held in place by two brackets, one of which had snapped. So the back pressure had literally blown the muffler off! I will probably take it to an exhaust shop and get them to weld on some spring hooks and another mount, but in the meantime, I bodgied up a fastening using hose clamps, or, as I will call them from now on, “high temp zipties”

I’ve also got another hose clamp securing the midpipe to the frame, but that’s not all that interesting or easy to photograph.