SRX6 oil dipstick markings?

My SRX6 has an aftermarket temperature guage oil dipstick, but it doesn’t have any markings for oil level. Can anyone give me the measurements, as per the pic below? I’m after the measurements from the bottom of the threads to the “full” marking, and to the “low” marking also, although I think this dipstick is too short to show the low marking.

For Sale – 1996 Yamaha XT600 parts (all sold now)

Update 2 – all sold now

UPDATED – some items sold

Time to clear out the spare parts bin…

I will clean everything up and update the pics soon. Items located in Brisbane. Happy to post smaller items, but larger/heavier items (wheels, rim, header pipes or muffler) are pick up unless buyer arranges freight. I take cash on delivery, paypal or bank transfer. Contact me on phil@urbanoia.net


Rear Wheel

  • Suits 1996-2002 Yamaha XT600 (may also fit 90-95 XT600, although I can’t say for certain)
  • Does not include bearings, spacers, seal, sprocket carrier, cush drive rubbers, brake disc or brake disc mounting bolts
  • Stock 17×2.5 steel D.I.D. rim in good condition
  • Bridgestone BT45 road tyre fitted, road legal, 4.3mm tread
  • Hub has a hole drilled in cush drive side. Was there when i got it and have had no problems in the 25k kms I’ve put on it.
  • AU$90.00

Tail plastic, white

  • 4 holes drilled for mounting aftermarket tail light
  • mounting tab broken, but still works fine
  • suits 1990-2002 XT600 (I replaced this one with a black tail piece from a 1992 XT600).
  • (the stickers come off and it is plain white – i’ll clean it up and update the photos soon)
  • AU$15.00

Oil filler shroud

  • suits 1996-2002 XT600. doubt it will fit 90-95 as they have a different tank.
  • Very good condition, bought it new and probably only used it for 20k kms / 2 years
  • AU$60.00

Tacho drive and cable

  • suits 1996-2002 XT600. Should also fit 1990-1995 as they have same head, but not sure if there is an internal drive shaft for it.
  • have been unable to separate cable from drive mechanism – philips screw head is a bit munged.
  • AU$100.00

Front disc mount damping rubber (disc not included)

  • suits 1996-2002 XT600. Should also suit 1990-1995, however i can’t say this for certain
  • AU$15.00

SOLD:

 

Front wheel

  • suits 1996-2002 yamaha xt600 (may suit 90-95, although i can’t say for certain)
  • includes bearings, spacer and seal (does not include speedo drive)
  • rim (stock steel D.I.D. 21×1.85) in good condition
  • Bridgestone BT45 road tyre fitted, road legal, 3.5mm tread
  • disc and damper rubber included. Disc thickness 4.3
  • AU$180.00

Front rim

  • D.I.D. 21×1.85 36 hole steel rim off 1996 Yamaha XT600
  • good condition
  • AU$40.00

Front spoke set

  • steel, brass nipples, 36 spokes
  • from 1996 Yamaha XT600 21″ front wheel
  • AU$25.00

Stock front disc

  • suits 1996-2002 XT600. Should also suit 1990-1995, however i can’t say this for certain
  • Good condition, disc thickness 4.6mm
  • AU$50.00

Stock header pipes

  • suits 1996-2002 XT600. Should also suit 1990-1995, and possibly earlier, however i can’t say this for certain
  • painted in black hi temp paint. fair condition
  • AU$30.00

Stock muffler

  • suits 1996-2002 XT600. Should also suit 1990-1995, however i can’t say this for certain
  • needs a repaint, but otherwise fine
  • AU$80.00

Speedo cable

  • fair condition
  • AU$10.00

Speed, tacho and mount

  • suits 1996-2002 XT600. Should also suit 1990-1995, if tacho drive is present and working
  • tacho has cracked screen and casing, but works ok (intermittently it requires a tap to start working)
  • a few light bulb sockets are either a bit mangled
  • speedo has rub mark from a cable.
  • AU$60.00

Alloy pillion peg mounting brackets, includes pegs and mounting bolts AU$50.00

 

EBC Supermoto disc for XT600 – update

Well, I figured out what the hell was going on finally. The “alloy caliper relocation bracket” is actually a replacement caliper mounting plate. As it is a two piston sliding caliper, there is a steel mounting plate that is part of the caliper. I’ve now fitted this, and it does indeed seem to fit well.

I have, however, completely lost faith in EBC as a company, and will be doing my darnedest to make sure that I, nor anyone I know, buys anything EBC ever again. When a company is selling a product and they describe it as having an “anodised alloy relocation bracket”, but then come back to you saying that “it should be made out of stainless steel because of the high stresses in a bracket”, you can’t help but realise that they don’t know their arse from their head. (Kedo.de sell a similar kit made by Lucas, which is an alternative)

So, yes it works, but EBC have demonstrated to me that they haven’t got a fucking clue, and I will never buy anything EBC ever again.

Blowing lightbulbs on the XT6 – electrical problem?

Lately I’ve gone through a few headlight bulbs on the XT6 – the low beam (which is permanently on) filament has been blowing, but highbeam is ok. I thought it might be a dodgy reg/rect over-volting things, especially since my battery recently died. On checking, the reg/rect is putting out around 15.5V at idle and at 4k RPM. I also checked the output of the stator by disconnecting the reg/rect and measuring the three phase wires (white) coming into the reg/rect. At idle I was getting around 25VAC, and at 3-4k RPM about 60VAC. I’m not sure about the low voltage output at idle, but 60VAC is a good sign at 3-4k RPM.

Reading various troubleshooting guides, the general consensus is that around 14.5V out of the reg/rect is health, but anything above 15V is a worry. I tested my SRX6 and it sat nicely on 14.5V. The reg/rect it uses looks different so I didn’t want to just swap it to try.

On the suggestion of a mate, I tested DC voltage under heavy electrical load – high beam, brake light and indicator – bingo! 14.0V – 14.5V between 3k and 5k RPM. My previous testing had all been done without the headlight running (blown low beam), meaning the reg/rect had hardly any load at all. My guess is that the low load gave something almost like an open circuit voltage which is a bit higher than ideal. With a decent load (80W or so of lights) it brought the voltage down to the normal level.

Above mate also suggested that the blown lightbulbs could be to do with insufficient vibration dampening of the headlight assembly. I will have to look into improving this and see if it makes a difference.

So, I guess the morals of this story are:

  • check reg/rect output voltage under load conditions (highbeam, brake light, indicators etc) at around 5k RPM and see what you get.
  • to check coils, rather than measuring resistance, measure open circuit voltage between phases. Resistance will vary depending on power output, whereas voltage range is a functional measure. around 60VAC is good.

Here’s a good electrical troubleshooting guide http://www.offwidth.co.uk/bike/general/electrical_fault_finding.pdf

Trailtech vapor dash for the XT

Trail Tech Vapor

The dash on the XT has been bodgy ever since i got it – the tacho was damaged, the backlights only worked after a shoddy wiring repair, and the turn signals light doesn’t work. After putting on the motard wheels, the speedo is out too, so I decided it was time to upgrade to a Trail Tech Vapor speedo.

I got the kit from an Australian eBay seller, BigPigMCA, who sells them for AU$170 delivered. Pretty competitive with sellers in the US, and it arrived in around three days, much quicker than getting it from the US.

The first part of the installation was fabricating a mount. I made this mounting plate from 2mm aluminium checkerplate. Pretty rough, but does the job and is fairly hidden. I made the bends by hand and annealed them with a butane blowtorch. Shaping was done freehand with a die grinder and files. Probably the trickiest parts was shaping the top to fit the underside of the headlight cowl, and making the spacers for the mounting bolts – since I don’t have a lathe I had to roughly cut them to length then file them down till they fit.

Mr Dash is happy to accept your Vapor

I pulled the speedo cable off and covered the drive output in tape. I plan on machining up a spacer to replace it at some point in the future. With the tacho cable, i’ve just covered up the cable end. I intend to remove the tacho drive and install a blanking plate. The previous model XT6 (1990-1995) doesn’t have a tacho, and apparently it will fit mine (1996) no issue. If I had a lathe I’d make one myself, but again, sadly I don’t.

Here’s a picture of the tacho drive:

Below is a parts diagram of the cylinder head from a 1990-1995 XT600. Part 24 is the blanking plate I intend to use (so long as it isn’t ridiculously expensive, which there is a fair chance it is)

I wired up the tacho sensor inductively, using five wraps of the positive lead around the spark plug lead, and the negative tied to ground on the chassis.

The speedo pick was a bit of a bodge – I’ll be getting an EBC oversized disc (hopefully!) in a few weeks. Doing a proper mount would have been a pain in the arse, so I figured i’d do a bodgy mount until then.

I didn’t install the temp sensor, as it is unfortunately the wrong size – DR650’s must use a smaller spark plug. I am going to try to find another spot to mount it (oil tank?)

Here’s the finished product:

Still to do:

  • Replace speedo drive with spacer
  • replace tacho drive with blanking plate
  • wire up dash lights (high beam, neutral, turn) using LEDs and mount on dash.
  • proper speedo pickup mount once new 320mm disc is installed

Police: Piss me off – you’re screwed, seriously injure a motorcyclist – no problem

A man was recently charged with careless driving, after he cut off the acting police minister, while talking on his mobile. Good-o, I say, this is the sort of thing that needs to be enforced.

However, here I sit, four months after being hit by a car performing an illegal u-turn, with probably at least another three months before I go back to work, wondering why it is that a driver who was 100% at fault and caused serious injury, gets a slap on the wrist, in the form of an infringement for performing an illegal u-turn (the same as if you did a dodgy u-turn at a set of traffic lights and didn’t cause an accident). Not even “failing to give way while performing a u-turn”, let alone Dangerous Driving Causing Grievous Bodily Harm, which is the charge that fits.

What this goes to show me is that if you piss off a police officer, you are fucked. But if you do something wrong that is a bit hard to prove (or you do it to a minority group that the police assume are guilty until proven innocent – such as motorcyclists) then you get off scott free.

Is it any wonder that Traffic Police are hated, let alone not respected?

From http://www.abc.net.au/news/stories/2010/02/01/2806594.htm

Nermin Hodzic leaves Brisbane's Magistrates Court after being fined $500.
Nermin Hodzic leaves Brisbane’s Magistrates Court after being fined $500. (ABC News: Jason Rawlins)
A man has appeared in the Brisbane Magistrates Court charged over a traffic incident involving one of Queensland’s most senior police officers.

The court heard Nermin Hodzic, 22, from Calamvale on Brisbane’s southside, was driving north on the Gateway Motorway early last month when he weaved in and out of traffic while talking on a mobile phone.

Hodzic narrowly missed a car driven by Acting Police Commissioner Kathy Rynders who was off duty at the time.

She was forced to break heavily to avoid a collision, which in turn forced motorists behind her to also break hard.

After several attempts she managed to intercept Hodzic and he was charged with careless driving and using a mobile phone whilst driving.

Hodzic was fined $500 and convictions were recorded.

I’m back in the game! Another Yamaha SRX600

on_ute_02

on_ute_01

After a few (regretful) years without an SRX6, I’m back! I picked up this one last week. It’s an 88 model, which has a 17″ front wheel, single 320mm disc, 4 pot caliper, but still has rear twin shocks and is kick start only.

This one’s had some serious work done to it too – wiseco 11:1 high compression piston, race cam, keihin FCR33 flat slide carbs, oval stainless exhaust and WP rear shocks.

Its currently unregistered and off the road (as am I, in a sense…), so I haven’t been able to test ride it yet, but I can’t wait. With all the work it is going to be an absolute rocket!

More pics and details to come soon.

Phil

New pipe for the XT600

A new pipe for the XT – nice, but I couldn’t recommend MEP.

DSC01052

Upon motarding the XT6, I discovered I needed a new exhaust, as the stock muffler rubbed against the rear tyre. Great excuse to get a new exhaust! I ended up getting a custom one made at Motorcycle Exhaust Professionals. I opted for a full stainless system, with oversize headers. This ended up costing $800.

Some better pics of their handy work:

DSC01056

DSC01057

While the workmanship seem nice, I must say that I doubt I would buy anything from them again, or recommend them to anyone. I told the guy at the shop that i wanted something not too loud – nothing that is offensive or will get the attention of the police. He was kind of dismissive at the time, but I thought it was just his manner. When I picked up the bike, I discovered that they’d put a straight through, large bore muffler on, with no baffle. His comment was "we thought this sounded nice".

Well fuck, I don’t care what you think, I care about what I asked for.

Riding it home, it was stupidly loud – to the point that it was uncomfortably loud for me. At the shop he was reluctant to fit a baffle, but after insisting he "kindly" gave one to me for only $10. I fitted the baffle when I got home – quietens it down, but it probably goes a bit too far. I’ve chopped a few cms off the end of the inner pipe already, and will experiment further with this to get a decent sound.

So, the bottom line is, yay! i got a new exhaust for the XT! Unless you want a deafening, cop-attracting, neighbor pissing off exhaust, then I would not recommend Motorcycle Exhaust Professionals, unless you want to spend a lot of extra time fucking around to get it sounding decent but not offensive. In hindsight, I probably would have tried Pipemasters – more expensive ($1100 vs $800) but their pipes look nicer and they sounded like they would actually build the system you liked, rather than the one "they thought sounded nice".